Bekko Koi 20.08 inch, Bekko are produced in the process of breeding Taisho Sanshoku. They, therefore, have the same Sumi as Taisho Sanshoku, which as a rule should not appear in the head region.
Bekko are grouped by the color of skin into Shiro (white) Bekko, a.k.a. (red) Bekko and Ki (yellow) Bekko,. Nowadays we seldom come across Ki Bekko, and a.k.a. Bekko don’t seem to win upper prizes at unless they have considerably high quality red and well balanced Sumi. Accordingly, we can reasonably assume the term “Bekko” is usually used to mean Shiro Bekko.
Both Shiro Bekko and Shiro Utsuri have black and white markings only, and the white ground must be milky white so as to bring Sumi out into prominence. The white ground in the head region is especially liable to amber discoloration. Koi with jet-black markings on the milky white skin which covers the whole body look indescribably refined.
The Bekko is a solid colored non-metallic koi fish with black (sumi) spots on the body. Bekko koi are produced in three colors; white, red and yellow. The white variety is called a Shiro Bekko. It is a clean white koi fish with the addition of black spots. The Aka Bekko is a red or orange koi with black spots, and the Ki Bekko is a yellow koi fish with black spots. The Ki Bekko or yellow version is the rarest.
Sumi placement is important when evaluating a Bekko koi fish. The sumi patches on a Bekko should appear uniformly on the Koi’s back. They should be only located above the lateral line, and never ahead of the shoulder region. The Bekko head should be free of any black pigment, spots or pattern. Its fins, however, are generally white and may have intermittent sumi stripes which often help to maintain balance of the sumi pattern.
The Bekko is generally one of the first varieties that a beginner koi hobbyist learns to recognize and is a very popular fish for Japanese koi ponds and water gardens. As a breeder of Japanese koi, the Bekko and Butterfly koi are produced at the Kloubec Koi Farm.
Koi Care Guide – Six things to know about your koi
Experience Level: Intermediate
Size: Koi grow up to 36 inches (91 cm) long
Lifespan: They can live for more than 50 years and thrive in a wide range of water temperatures
Temperament: They are generally peaceful but may pick on slower fish
Origin: They’re a type of carp native to Japan
Did You Know: Koi can learn to recognize and take food from their pet parents
How do I set up my koi’s aquarium?
Koi grow quickly and get very large. Keep mature koi in an outdoor pond of at least 3 feet deep, with at least 50 gallons of water per fish.
Young koi can be kept indoors in an aquarium of at least 29 gallons.
Put the aquarium in a quiet area out of direct sunlight and drafts.
Cover the aquarium with a hood to reduce evaporation and splashing and to keep fish from leaping out.
To transfer new koi to the aquarium, float them in the water inside their bag for about 10 minutes so they can acclimate to the new water temperature.
If you’re introducing koi to an existing school in an aquarium or pond, quarantine the new fish in a separate body of water for 2 to 4 weeks to be sure they are healthy.
On moving day, use a net to transfer the koi so old water doesn’t mingle with new water.
Whether they live indoors or outdoors, add no more than 3 new koi at a time.
Heat & light
Outdoor koi are hardy and will hibernate under ice in winter as long as their pond is deep enough to not freeze completely. (They won’t survive in solid ice.)
Your koi’s pond should be partially shaded.
Indoor koi prefer water between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Install a light inside an indoor aquarium to illuminate it for 8 to 12 hours a day.
Koi are pretty temperature-resistant— they can even hibernate under ice in winter. Just be sure your pond is at least three feet deep— otherwise, it could freeze solid, and koi aren’t that tough. When they live indoors, koi prefer cool water—between 65 and 75 degrees F (18 to 24 C).
How do I keep my koi healthy?
If your outdoor koi don’t seem to be eating in the winter, don’t worry; it’s normal for them to stop eating at temperatures below 40 F. Be sure to contact a veterinarian if you notice any of these symptoms:
Unusual swimming pattern
Thinness or decreased appetite
Inflamed or discolored skin or fins
Fins clamped to sides of body
Scraping body on rocks (flashing)
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